Pre-Qin Period: The Foundation of the Clothing System
The ritual source of the Hanfu system can be traced back to the legendary Yellow Emperor period. The 'Book of Changes' records 'the Yellow Emperor, Yao, and Shun draped clothing to govern the world,' which not only reveals the early connection between clothing and political order but also established the basic concept of 'upper garment lower skirt.' In the late Neolithic Age, silk and hemp textiles appeared, providing the technical basis for this concept.
During the Western Zhou period, the clothing system completed systematic construction, forming a hierarchical clothing system with the 'Son of Heaven's Mianfu' at its core. According to the 'Rites of Zhou,' the degree of decoration, sleeve width, and skirt length of clothing became intuitive markers of social stratification. The Son of Heaven's ceremonial dress used twelve chapter patterns, while scholars and officials used Xuan Duan as initial dress.
Spring and Autumn Warring States: Innovation of Deep Garment System
During the social changes of 'ritual collapse and music ruin,' the Hanfu system welcomed key innovation - the birth of the deep garment system. This 'upper garment lower skirt connected' form broke the traditional separation of garment and skirt. The 'Book of Rites - Deep Garment' clearly records its philosophical symbolism: round sleeves symbolize compasses, square collars symbolize squares, the back center seam symbolizes straight paths, and the twelve panels of cloth correspond to the twelve months of the year.
The deep garment unearthed from the Jiangling Mashan Chu Tomb provides the most complete archaeological evidence for the deep garment system. The garment uses 'continuous lapel hooked edge' craftsmanship, with the lapel wrapping around the body for three and a half circles, forming 12 layers of gradual pleats. The garment length is 160 cm, with sleeve span reaching 2.3 meters.
Qin and Han Dynasties: Maturation and Popularization
The Qin Dynasty unified China and established various systems, including the clothing system. The Han Dynasty saw unprecedented development and perfection of ritual culture, with the term 'Han official dignity' specifically describing Han Dynasty's clothing system. Hanfu mainly used deep garments, divided into curved lapel and straight lapel. Curved lapel was mostly worn by women, with length reaching the ground, wrapping the body tightly; straight lapel was mostly worn by men, with loose body for easy movement.
Wei, Jin, and Northern-Southern Dynasties: Elegant and Unrestrained Style
During this period of political turmoil, metaphysics prevailed, and literati pursued 'Wei-Jin demeanor.' Men's clothing featured wide outer garments with broad cuffs and flowing hems, often paired with silk scarves, reflecting an unrestrained temperament. Women continued the ruqun style while absorbing minority clothing characteristics.
Tang Dynasty: Openness and Prosperity
The Tang Dynasty was the peak of Hanfu development. While continuing traditional Hanfu, it absorbed large amounts of foreign clothing content. Tang women dared to wear 'low-cut' clothing, and chest-high ruqun fully displayed women's graceful figures, reflecting that era's confidence and inclusiveness.
Song and Ming Dynasties: Refinement and Restraint
Song Dynasty Neo-Confucianism rose, and clothing style turned to elegant and restrained. The Ming Dynasty was the last glorious period of Hanfu, with a more complete clothing system and more diverse styles. The mamian skirt became a标志性下装 for Ming Dynasty women and remains a popular item in Hanfu revival today.