The elegance of Han, the grandeur of Tang, the simplicity of Song, and the refinement of Ming... This article takes you on a 'elegant tour through dynasties' to experience the styles of Hanfu in different periods!
Han Style: Dignified Ritual Charm
Hanfu was based on Chu clothing improvements, and its clothing system was gradually perfected until the Eastern Han Dynasty Ming Emperor's second year of Yongping, when a complete crown and clothing system was established. In early Han, there were no color restrictions for common people, and officials also wore black single garments. Rank differences were mainly reflected through crowns and seals. Han Dynasty had more than ten types of crowns including Jue Bian, Pi Bian, Tongtian Crown, Yuanyou Crown, Jinxian Crown, etc. Commoners used scarves to束发.
Han Dynasty clothing mainly included robes, Chan Yu, Ru, and skirts, with little difference between men's and women's styles. Han Dynasty weaving and embroidery were developed. Although clothing styles were simple, wealthy families could wear silk and satin with complex embroidery. Commoners' main clothing was short garments and Ku (trousers).
The most common dress for Western Han women was wearing curved lapel deep garments with right lapel, waist tied with belts. Hairstyles were mostly parted in the middle on top of the head, gathered into a bun at the back, or twisted and hung down, called Chuiyun Ji. Eastern Han deep garments were mostly straight lapel deep garments, convenient for putting on and taking off.
Tang Charm: Grand and Magnificent
The Tang Dynasty continued previous Han clothing while absorbing large amounts of foreign clothing content. On one hand, official sacrificial clothing still used Mianfu, Tongtian Crown, and Liang Crown. On the other hand, officials and scholars used round collar robes evolved from Hu clothing as official clothing.
Tang Dynasty women's clothing can definitely be called the most open clothing in Chinese history. The most representative early Tang women's clothing was half-sleeve, ru, skirt, and Pei (scarf). Early Tang women's clothing was relatively slim, mostly high-waisted, low-chest ruqun sets. The skirt was vertical striped skirt, with a long Pei wrapped around the arms.
Representative high Tang women's clothing was ru, skirt, and Pei. After high Tang, half-sleeves were worn inside ru as underwear. Striped skirts were no longer used, replaced by various patterned skirts. High Tang began to崇尚丰满, and clothes became very wide. Red skirts, also called pomegranate skirts, were popular throughout the Tang Dynasty.
Song Elegance: Simple and Refined
The Song Dynasty had prosperous economy, splendid culture, and brilliant art. Literati received special礼遇 in the Song Dynasty, and under the support of artistic trends and economic prosperity, Song Dynasty clothing formed a unique elegant style.
The mainstream of Song Dynasty men's clothing was still the combination of Futou, round collar robe, and boots. Song Dynasty Futou had many varieties, and officials used Zhanjiao Futou when attending court. Song literati and commoners also wore various crossed collar long shirts, with Beizi worn outside. Early Song Beizi was a garment with sleeves reaching the elbows, with合领 and对襟, worn outside the shirt.
Ming Refinement: Dignified and Elegant
Ming Dynasty clothing was roughly similar to Song Dynasty but more with Ming's own style. Ming men's clothing was still mainly large lapel right lapel crossed collar and round collar. Round collar robes were more standardized, with jade belts tied at the waist. Women's clothing was richer than men's, mainly including Ao, Bijia, and skirts.