Intangible Cultural Heritage: Southern Fujian Hairpin Flowers

Quanzhou Hairpin Flowers, as an ICH item, is not a single craft. Centered on coastal fishing villages such as Xunpu, Xunpu (note: possible duplicate in original text, retained as is), and Dazuo, it is a comprehensive ICH project that integrates marine culture, folk beliefs, and traditional craftsmanship. Its origin can be traced back to the Song and Yuan dynasties. At that time, Quanzhou, known as the "No.1 Port in the East," thrived in maritime trade. Exotic cultures from Arabia, Persia, and other regions collided and merged with local Southern Fujian culture, and the custom of "decorating the head with flowers" gradually emerged in coastal fishing villages. Fishermen made ornaments from fresh flowers, seashells, corals, etc., collected from the sea or picked along the shore, and inserted them into their hair buns. On one hand, this symbolized "using flowers as a medium to pray for safe voyages"; on the other hand, the bright colors made it easier to identify each other while working at sea. Over time, a unique hairpin flower culture took shape.

The history of Southern Fujian Hairpin Flowers dates back to the Tang and Song dynasties. Back then, the trend of wearing hairpin flowers quietly emerged among the people and became an indispensable part of women’s makeup. With extraordinary creativity and exquisite skills, craftsmen skillfully combined delicate flowers, precious jewelry, and thin gold/silver wires to create hairpin flowers of vibrant colors and diverse shapes. These hairpin flowers were not only beautiful decorations but also a testament to the superb craftsmanship of the time.

By the Song Dynasty, the hairpin flower trend flourished even more, creating a lively scene where "everyone wore hairpin flowers." Hairpin flowers were no longer exclusive to women; even men joined in. During major festivals and solemn ceremonial occasions, people would carefully select hairpin flowers to wear on their heads, showcasing their grace and love for life.

After years of accumulation, the art of hairpin flowers reached an unprecedented peak during the Ming and Qing dynasties. The craftsmanship became more exquisite and delicate, and the themes and styles became richer and more diverse. In addition to traditional floral elements, themes such as birds and beasts, landscapes, figures, and mythological stories were integrated into hairpin flower creation. As a result, each hairpin flower work was like an exquisite miniature painting, with every detail containing a unique charm.

In some parts of Southern Fujian, hairpin flowers are closely linked to local folk activities and have become an indispensable element in occasions such as weddings, funerals, and festivals. For example, in Xunpu Village of Quanzhou, the "flower wreath for hairpins" of Xunpu women is truly remarkable. They twist their black hair into a round bun, then carefully string fresh flowers such as white jasmine and elegant jasmine (note: "素馨" refers to jasmine-like flowers, translated as "elegant jasmine" for distinction) into garlands, which are gracefully wrapped around the back of the bun. As they walk, the flowers sway gently, emitting a charming fragrance, earning Xunpu women the title of "fairies among flowers."

In 2008, the hairpin flower custom of Xunpu women was included in the national ICH list, becoming an outstanding representative of Southern Fujian’s hairpin flower culture. From its emergence in the Tang and Song dynasties, to its widespread popularity in the Song Dynasty, and its prosperity in the Ming and Qing dynasties, Southern Fujian Hairpin Flowers has traversed a thousand years, carrying rich historical and cultural connotations, and continues to bloom to this day.

The charm of Southern Fujian Hairpin Flowers lies not only in its long history but also in the diverse flower materials used and the profound meanings behind them. Each flower is like a unique cultural symbol, weaving a colorful cultural tapestry of Southern Fujian Hairpin Flowers.

Jasmine is undoubtedly one of the most common flowers in Southern Fujian Hairpin Flowers. Its snow-white petals, small and exquisite like tiny stars, emit a fresh, elegant, and long-lasting fragrance. Smelling it makes one feel as if they are in a quiet summer night garden. In Southern Fujian culture, jasmine symbolizes purity and beauty, embodying people’s yearning for pure love and a happy life. On important days, many young women carefully select jasmine to pin in their hair buns, praying for a love as pure as jasmine and a life filled with sweetness and fragrance.

Magnolia is also highly favored. Its large, plump flowers resemble elegant white jade cups. The petals, as white and smooth as jade, shine with a soft luster in the sun, and the fragrance emitted is quiet, rich, elegant, and charming. Magnolia symbolizes nobility, sincerity, and gratitude. Wearing magnolia hairpin flowers is not only a respect for and pursuit of noble virtues but also a way to express sincere emotions and deep gratitude to others. On important ceremonial occasions, magnolia hairpin flowers often become the first choice for people to convey their feelings.

Lilac is another regular in hairpin flowers. Its compact and delicate flower clusters, with small flowers huddled together to form strings of elegant purple bouquets, are like dreamy purple clouds. Lilac symbolizes freshness, elegance, and perseverance, encouraging people to maintain a refined temperament in life, face life’s challenges with grace, and overcome difficulties with unwavering perseverance to pursue their ideals. In particular, women who love literature and art are fond of lilac hairpin flowers, as if wearing them gives them the poetic romance of lilacs.

In addition to these common flowers, many other flowers are also skillfully used in hairpin flowers. Bright roses symbolize passionate love and romantic feelings; colorful chrysanthemums, representing longevity, auspiciousness, and nobility, are often used to express blessings and respect for elders; and lovely baby’s breath stands for purity, longing, and the love of a supporting role, adding a touch of agility and grace to hairpin flowers. Each type of flower material, with its unique posture and meaning, shines in its own way in hairpin flowers, jointly creating a rich and colorful world of Southern Fujian Hairpin Flowers. These hairpin flowers not only adorn women’s hair but also serve as a carrier of their emotions and cultural inheritance, making the culture of Southern Fujian Hairpin Flowers more profound and charming.

Among the many hairpin flower cultures in Southern Fujian, Xunpu Hairpin Flowers is undoubtedly the most dazzling pearl, exuding a unique coastal charm.

The "flower wreath for hairpins" of Xunpu women is truly a masterpiece. They skillfully twist their black and shiny hair into a round bun, like a carefully carved work of art. On the bun, fresh flowers such as white jasmine, elegant jasmine, and pink roses are strung into delicate garlands by the dexterous Xunpu women using thin iron wires or silk threads. These garlands are wrapped around the bun layer by layer, forming a colorful "flower ring." From a distance, it looks like a miniature garden on the head, full of vitality.

These hairpin flowers are not randomly matched; they have unique rules and meanings. The pure fragrance of jasmine symbolizes Xunpu women’s yearning and pursuit of a better life; the elegant freshness of jasmine (素馨) represents their hardworking, simple, and unyielding qualities; and the bright charm of roses implies their passionate desire and persistent commitment to love. Each flower carries the emotions and aspirations of Xunpu women, jointly weaving the beautiful vision of their lives.

The flower wreath for hairpins is closely integrated with Xunpu women’s daily life, clothing, and fishing village culture. Xunpu women wear "daju shirts" (loose long-shirts) and "wide-leg pants" with strong marine characteristics. This clothing design is convenient for them to work at sea – the loose comfort of the daju shirt and the freedom of movement of the wide-leg pants all demonstrate the wisdom of working people. The bright flower wreath on their heads contrasts with their simple clothing, creating a strong visual impact. It not only shows Xunpu women’s unique pursuit of beauty but also reflects their unremitting yearning for romance and beauty in hard life.

In Xunpu fishing village, hairpin flowers are not just decorations but also a cultural inheritance and a symbol of identity. Whether it is young girls or elderly grandmothers, they are all enthusiastic about wearing hairpin flowers. Young girls wear them to show the vitality and beauty of youth and attract the attention of their beloved; elderly grandmothers wear them as a adherence to traditional customs, as well as a remembrance of the past years and gratitude for life.

During major festivals and celebrations, the significance of hairpin flowers becomes even more prominent. For example, during the grand Mazu worship ceremony, Xunpu women will carefully select the brightest and most beautiful flowers, pin them on their heads with devotion, and pray to Mazu for safety, harvest, and happiness with the most pious attitude. At this time, hairpin flowers carry the hopes and beliefs of the entire fishing village, becoming a link between humans and gods, and between reality and ideals. With its unique charm, Xunpu Hairpin Flowers has become an indispensable part of Southern Fujian’s hairpin flower culture, allowing us to see the coastal people’s love for life and their unique interpretation of beauty.

In the tide of the times, Southern Fujian Hairpin Flowers has not stood still but actively embraced modern society, achieving a perfect integration of tradition and modernity and radiating new vitality.

Today’s hairpin flowers, while preserving traditional craftsmanship and cultural connotations, have cleverly integrated various fashion elements to better meet modern aesthetic needs. Once simple, hairpin flowers now feature bolder innovations in color matching – in addition to traditional soft color palettes, vibrant dopamine color schemes and gentle macaron color schemes have been added, creating wonderful contrasts. In terms of design, they are no longer limited to classic styles but draw on modern jewelry design concepts, becoming more concise, exquisite, and creative. Whether worn daily or with evening dresses for important occasions, they can be easily matched.

In addition to Xunpu Village, traces of hairpin flowers can also be found in some ancient towns and streets in Quanzhou, such as West Street and Zhongshan Road. In these lively places, hairpin flowers blend perfectly with modern life. You can savor Southern Fujian’s specialty snacks while admiring the beautiful scenery of hairpin flowers on the streets, experiencing the new vitality of Southern Fujian Hairpin Flowers in modern society.