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Hanfu, also known as Han costume or Hua clothing, is said to have been created by the Yellow Emperor at the beginning of the Chinese civilization. Everyone knows that Hanfu is beautiful and elegant, but do you know about its history and the cultural significance behind it?
The Structural Features of Hanfu
Although Hanfu has undergone numerous changes, its evolution has always followed certain forms, and it is known for its unique clothing structures such as "crossed collar and right lapel," "wide clothing and broad sleeves," and "sash ties with hidden buttons."
Crossed Collar and Right Lapel
The collar formed by the left and right lapels crossing at the chest is called a "crossed collar." The left front lapel is folded over to the right armpit and tied, covering the right lapel. This creates a "Y" shape visually and a right-leaning effect for the entire garment, which is known as a "right lapel." China has always valued the right side as superior, and Hanfu has consistently honored this principle, maintaining the tradition of "crossed collar and right lapel" through countless changes.
Wide Clothing and Broad Sleeves
The sleeves of Hanfu, also known as "mei," have a relatively unique shape in the history of world ethnic costumes. The sleeves are actually round, representing the circular heaven in the concept of "round heaven and square earth." The "wide and long sleeves" are a prominent feature of Hanfu sleeves, which display a majestic, elegant, dignified, and graceful style.
Sash Ties with Hidden Buttons
The hidden buttons in Hanfu actually include two situations: with and without buttons. Generally, buttons are not used for Hanfu. Even if they are used, they are hidden and not exposed. Clothes are usually tied with sashes. Additionally, there are a wide belt and a long sash at the waist.
All the sashes are made from the same fabric as the garment. A piece of clothing has two pairs of sashes for practical use: one sash from the left armpit is tied with the sash from the right lapel, and one sash from the right armpit is tied with the sash from the left lapel. Tying these two pairs of sashes completes the dressing process.
The History of Hanfu
Throughout history, clothing has undergone tremendous changes with the succession of dynasties, giving rise to many different forms and styles. Today, we will review the styles of Hanfu worn in different dynasties.
Xia, Shang, and Zhou Dynasties
The crossed collar, right lapel, and sash ties were the most basic and typical features. The upper garment and lower skirt were the most fundamental style, which is why the characters "衣裳" (clothing) are still used today as a general term for garments.
Among the various oracle bone and bronze inscription characters, a very common form of the character "衣" (yi) depicts a top with a crossed collar and right lapel. The lower garment paired with this style was called "裳" (shang).
Qin and Han Dynasties
Clothing during the Qin and Han dynasties was generally divided into two types: quju and zhiju, which could be worn by both men and women. The quju shenyi was the most common type of women's clothing, which was tight-fitting and long enough to trail on the ground, with a skirt that was generally bell-shaped, covering the feet when walking.
Due to improvements in undergarments during the Han Dynasty, the quju shenyi with its wrapping lapels became redundant, so the zhiju style gradually became more widespread after the Eastern Han Dynasty. The ruqun style typically featured a very short top that reached only to the waist, while the skirt was very long and hung down to the ground.
During the Han dynasty, China's culture, economy, politics, military, and other aspects were unprecedentedly prosperous and strong, and the clothing and etiquette system was greatly perfected. The name "Hanfu" is also indirectly derived from this.
Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties
During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, the style of Hanfu became free and elegant. The literati of the Wei and Jin dynasties often wore wide outer coats without an inner garment, or wore a peculiar underwear similar to today's camisole inside the outer coat.
Influenced by the nomadic peoples of the north, trousers and tops also became popular among men in the Central Plains during this era. Trousers were referred to as "ku," and high-heeled wooden clogs began to become popular.
Wei and Jin period clothing was inherited from the Eastern Han dynasty, pursuing a magnificent and luxurious style. People added hanging decorations and ribbons to the pointed-toe shoes and rags. This looked elegant, which is what "Hua Gui Fei Shao" (华袿飞髾) in the contemporaneous literature refers to.
Sui and Tang Dynasties
The main clothing for women in the Sui and Tang dynasties was still the ruqun, which was a combination of skirt, blouse, and stole. The qixiong ruqun (high-waisted ruqun), which raised the skirt to the chest and was paired with a stole, was very popular among women. Noblewomen also wore dian chai liyi (formal dress with hairpins).
Hanfu decorations commonly used floral patterns, which were lively, free, well-proportioned, full, and round, with bold colors. The design of clothing patterns at this time tended to express a free, full, and sturdy artistic style.
The clothing for men in the Tang dynasty was mainly the futou paoshan. Futou, also known as futou, was a type of headwear that evolved from the headscarves of the Han and Wei dynasties. In addition to wearing round-collar narrow-sleeved robes, officials still wore ceremonial attire on important occasions, such as sacrificial ceremonies.
The style of ceremonial attire was mostly inherited from the previous dynasty, with a jiezhe or longguan on the head, a large-sleeved robe with a front opening, a lower skirt, and jade pendants.
Song Dynasty
Due to the political atmosphere in the early Song dynasty, Hanfu was no longer flamboyant and luxurious, but simple and unadorned. The traditional styles of large-collared right-lapel and round-collar clothing were continued for Han Chinese men.
Han Chinese women's clothing in the Song dynasty was more varied than men's clothing, while inheriting the basic style of the previous generation. The beizi of the Song dynasty was a long-sleeved, long-bodied garment with open armpits, meaning the front and back lapels were not sewn together, and there were ties at the armpits and back.
Ming Dynasty
Emperor Taizu of Ming, Zhu Yuanzhang, decreed that "the clothing system shall be the same as that of the Tang and Song dynasties," restoring the Hanfu tradition. Men's clothing basically followed the two traditional styles of the large-collared right-lapel and round-collar. However, it also absorbed some features of Yuan dynasty clothing and developed unique styles such as yisa.
Women's clothing in the Ming dynasty was still mainly ruqun. The women's ao (blouse) and shan (shirt) of the Ming dynasty were more distinctive and popular. Outer garments mostly had pipa sleeves with cinched cuffs, which could have a piped edge. The collar could have an extra collar piece. Skirts were mostly paired with mamian pleated skirts and regular pleated skirts. In addition to the long-standing shan, ao, and skirts, popular new styles included xiapai (long ribbon), beizi, and bijia (sleeveless vest), and the variety and craftsmanship of the clothing reached a peak.
 For men's clothing in the Ming dynasty, adults mostly wore wide, straight-cut robes with a sifang pingding jin (a type of hat) on their heads, while commoners wore short coats and wrapped headscarves. At this time, a small hat sewn from six or eight pieces of cloth, which looked very much like a half-cut watermelon, appeared. It was originally worn by servants, but because it was very convenient, it became widely popular.
Qing Dynasty
During the Kangxi and Yongzheng periods, Han Chinese women still retained the Hanfu style of the Ming dynasty, with small-sleeved tops and long skirts being popular. After the Qianlong period, clothes gradually became wider and shorter, and the sleeves became wider. With the addition of yun jian (cloud collars), the novelty of styles was unstoppable. By the late Qing dynasty, urban women had abandoned skirts for trousers, and clothes were decorated with floral lace and piped edges, which accounted for most of the cost of a garment.
As an important carrier of traditional culture, Hanfu has developed over thousands of years, forming a clothing culture system that is inclusive, diverse, and uniquely Oriental. It is a symbol of culture, a fusion of beauty and meaning, and a carrier of the Chinese national spirit, culture, and history. |
